​​​We Saw Saddam’s Face on the Moon ​​ 

April 28th was an overcast day. Our BBC convoy drove for hours across the border from Jordan. As we entered Baghdad we could smell smoke. Many buildings were set on fire. Strangely, the city didn’t feel chaotic. It was in shock. I hired a local fixer, Muhammed, and for the next six weeks we would drive together around Baghdad, Najaf, Karbala, Falluja, talking to people and collecting stories.